K136 The Rebuild

[Abu hamster]

Hi Just about to organise to pick up a canoe!

The boat is k136. Does anyone know the history, maker, age(Old) and anything of use?

Not sure what its called but had been thinking of renaming it anyway. Is this ok to do? Does it need to be re registered? Re measured?

Due to the Scandinavian link to the class I have decided upon the following name.

Stockholm Syndrome

Is this in use through out the fleet on an existing boat?

[Dreamcatcher]

Andy will be along soon ...he's the best one to give you the history!
Welcome to the canoe fleet.

[Abu hamster]

Thanks DC

I have to reconstruct it first will then place an order for my water wings!

Really excited!

[Abu hamster]

Anyone got any historic pictures of k136

[Abu hamster]

Right the boat is now with me. Orange and black Fibre glass hull with wood deck. The Seat will need an entire rebuild/or replacement. The Foredeck is shot so will need replacement. Going to go Sapele on the foredeck and rudder stock deck and then the rest will be White.

Lots of work to be done. Am stripping the orange off now with a chisel. I and the boat keep being buzzed by the bees of my lavender. Must be the colour!

Updates to follow as I deconstruct further .

If you have a seat kicking around going spare not too worried about weight but must be solid you know who to contact!

Pics to follow Can I post pics? I assume through the img box ???????? How does that work?????????

James

[Abu hamster]

It only just fits in my garage diagonally. Still paint coming off nicely and the foredeck is now off.

Would I be correct in saying that the new deck goes on oversized and is then trimmed back???????

James

[wee mcp]

Hi James
K137 was my first canoe it was built in 1972 by Hawksworth.
I know K132 was a composite Hawksworth built in 1971.
Therefore I think it's pretty safe to assume the vintage and maker of your boat.
Ian McP.

BTW I love your chosen Forum Handle I nearly coughed some wine up over my keyboard when I first read it.

[Abu hamster]

Will have to post a pick of the boat in the garage Its wedged top right to bottom left.

Heaven knows how I will get it down on my own.

[jimc]

Would I be correct in saying that the new deck goes on oversized and is then trimmed back?

FWIW That's how I did it. You might find some of this helpful...

[Abu hamster]

Hi Jim

Have read the build story over following a second evening chisel in hand scraping off the orange. Under the orange is a greyee green undercoat, a layer of red and bits of blue.

In all honesty the deck woodseems sound its just round the outside that needs work The Gunnels are tatty. There is some flex in the floor where it has come away from the supporting beam. No hatch is nearby. MMMMM Do i rip it off and make a Styrofoam support structure?

Will give it some thought as I take the paint off. One thing i noticed with he foredeck now off it seems that the original superstructure is friction fitted rather than being held together with glue resin or screws???? Weight saving, evaporating glue, oversite or just how it was done in 73????

James

[jimc]

There is some flex in the floor where it has come away from the supporting beam. No hatch is nearby. MMMMM Do i rip it off and make a Styrofoam support structure?

You want to avoid putting a hatch in because they crrate hardpoints that will crack round... If you've got good deck above good frames (which I didn't) then rippping the deck off now doesn't sound especially useful. It could, I suppose, be worth trying dripping some epoxy through holes, then putting screws through the holes to clamp it down... The worse that can happen is you have to take it off and replace it anyway...

with the foredeck now off it seems that the original superstructure is friction fitted rather than being held together with glue resin or screws?

Sounds unlikely to me. Might just be aerolite failure. That classic 60s glue seems to go brittle after 30/35 years and tends to lose a lot of strength. Something with lots of glue area like ply on stringers is normally OK, but deck to gunwhale joins and the like just give up.

[Abu hamster]

My plans

Foredeck.

As they seem sound give the foredeck support edges a light sand and finish with varnish for protection.

Construct new main fordeck beam using the old one as a template. Re fix all currect ply deck supports after a quick sand and layer of paint.

Construct new main fordeck beam using the old one as a template. Re fix all currect ply deck supports after a quick sand and layer of paint. Any idea's as to what wood should be used?

Fit new foredeck Sapele

New gunnels

Varnish decks and gunnels

Fit new trim at rear of foredeck.

Hull

Sand down hull (removing black) Not sure on new colour or how it should be applied bruch or spray????



Deck

Strip entire deck completely back to wood (2 buckets of paint and counting so far)

Resecure the deck to current support (as per JIMC) or rip of and replace)

Sand deck and give an undercoat and top layer

Not sure if rear deck (rudder slot bit) is on its own or part of rest of deck. Would like to replace this also with Sapele.



Mast

Recondition running on mast plenty of wd40 and furniture spray!

Seat

Seat and carriage ???????????????? Current one is pretty much dead


Fittings

Rebuild the rudder cartridge. The blade clips the cart currently which will be annoying on the water.

Strip black paint off the rudder and centreboard and repaint white

re rope


and finally...........

Work out how it goes together

Go sailing

Go swimming



All above subject to change if I decide to go for an AC conversion???

[Abu hamster]

I have been allowed to knock a hole in the door to allow the nose of the canoe poke through. No longer is it diagonal.



All for the cost of a new door!

[BobC]

That's quality!

I want you to post a pic of the garage door with the canoe poking through once you've done it.

[jimc]

Construct new main fordeck beam using the old one as a template. Re fix all currect ply deck supports after a quick sand and layer of paint. Any idea's as to what wood should be used?

Cedar is light, readily available and as you only need an odd scrap maybe you just buy it (at an OTT price but for small quantities so what) at the local Timber Merchant. That way you can pick out a piece with a decent grain, no knots etc. Last time I needed an odd bit it started life as a fancy moulding for some sort of garden shed or something and I just planed it down to shape. Caveats with cedar is that it can be a bit prone to split and is soft so prone to impact damage. Second doesn't matter under the foredeck, first should be OK if the grain is reasonable. If high load then a bit of glass/carbon will stop it happening. Good quality spruce or a really light pine is good too, but much more hassle to obtain.

I have been allowed to knock a hole in the door to allow the nose of the canoe poke through. No longer is it diagonal.

Mine has to be diagonal *and* through the door...

One day I'll get rich and be able to afford a 25ft long workshop and a second one next door for oily things like motorcycles and room to hoist the boat not being worked on up into the roof and... I dream...